![]() We have one more photo here, this is, these are the spark plug, sorry these are ignition coils taken on that cylinder bank so you can see that these coils are, this one’s o.k. Now around here we have fuel injectors, we have ignition coils, that’s kind of the critical piece, the ignition coils sit in this area here and coolant is dripping down on top of the ignition coils running down into the spark plug wells. I’m just going to work my way through these shares here, so this is the result of that coolant leak and if you look down, this is the top of, this is the right cylinder bank of the engine, and coolant bottle sits on top, now all that reddish coloured stuff that’s dried up anti-freeze, Chryslers anti-freeze from the factories are reddish coloured so that, it ends up showing like this. Now where this bottle is located on the engine is kind of the critical part. There’s a very small diameter hose, it’s basically an air bleed supposed to keep air out of the system so it circulates coolant and where the bottom arrow here, is where this piece here is supposed to attach into the coolant bottle so what’s happened is this, this has actually created a coolant, a small coolant leak that spews coolant out. This is where you fill the coolant, now the red arrows are pointing to what’s broken on this piece. So this is the coolant overflow bottle, it’s located on the right hand side of the engine compartment and it’s basically an expansion tank for the cooling system, this is where the radiator cap, it’s, it’s out of the frame off to your right over here but the radiator cap sits on top. I’ll just show some photos here, this is our actual coolant leak. Mark: So was there a lot of coolant leaking?īernie: There wasn’t a lot and the interesting thing is the way the coolant was leaking, you know the way because of where the coolant was leaking, it wasn’t a large leak and could never amount to a large leak but where it was leaking was what’s really the most important thing. So this is a gas engine which is a bit different than, talked a lot about their diesel vehicles, this is gas, what was going on with this vehicle?īernie: Well, this vehicle came to us for a maintenance service and an inspection so we had a look at the vehicle and found a few things, one of them was a coolant leak on top of the engine which was not a huge leak but definitely something potentially serious which is why we’re talking about that on this hangout. Mark: So we’re going to talk about jeeps, we’re back into the land of jeep, a Jeep Liberty 3.7 liter. An oil change should also be performed immediately afterward.Mark: Hi, it’s Mark from Top Local here with Bernie Pawlik of Pawlik Automotive in Vancouver Vancouver’s best auto service experience, 16 time winners of best auto repair in Vancouver as voted by their customers. ($170) Afterwards remember to thoroughly flush engine, radiator and heater core especially if a stop leak was used. Have heads pressure checked and resurfaced if warped. ![]() Sometimes you will get an O2 sensor code indicating this but will clear up once gasket is changed and temperatures burn off contamination in converter. Just checking exhaust color doesn’t always work because of the catalytic converter, which can be ruined if you run engine too much with coolant going through it. These test kits usually cost about $50 and can be reused in the future. Then if you are still going through coolant and have no visible leaks, check oil for signs of coolant contamination,then do a combustion gas in coolant test to see if it is leaking to cylinder. First take care of initial problem that likely caused overheating. These temps are usually caused by another initial problem, bad thermostat, leaking coolant, bad pump etc…With aluminum heads, they usually warp and just replacing the gasket is insufficient. Is this issue just a short in a wire somewhere? Should I start thinking head gasket? If yes to head gasket, should I use the “sealants” that are out on the market as a temporary fix?Īt 260 degrees F. The only thing that causes the temperature gauge to go down to normal is turning on the heater full blast. The overheat on the gauge comes after about 10 minutes of operation and happens whether I am driving on the highway or stopped at light. There is also no smoke and no weird sounds from the engine. I do not have any bubbling when the engine is cool, no white smoke, the fan turns on just fine, a/c and heater work, no visible leaks, equal heat from both rubber hoses to and from the radiator and fluid seems to be passing through them. The car is no longer running through coolant, but the temperature gauge on the dash still reads an overheat. I replaced the radiator (which I noticed had pin hole leaks), the water pump, thermostat, and the temperature gauge sensor. ![]() Update: The car continued to show overheating on the dashboard temperature gauge.
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